Tuesday, November 3, 2026

John and Kathi in New Orleans: Part I

I took a big step this week in my recovery from the double blow of my wife's death and my own heart surgery. I flew down to New Orleans with my new friend Kathi to spend Halloween weekend having as much fun as possible. This was the first thing I have looked forward to since Lisa's death, and it was everything I hoped. Kathi is on her own journey back from losing her husband, and we seem to have found something good together.

Hotel Mazarin Courtyard

We stayed at the Hotel Mazarin in the French Quarter. The hotel was fine, and I just loved the Quarter. It looked and felt different from anywhere else I have been: different architecture, different tacky stores, different cultural memes.

Friday night we took a mule-drawn carriage ghost/vampire tour, which was fun; New Orleans has lots of creepy stories with various degrees of veracity. Of course the tour goes by the Lalaurie Mansion, where Delphine Lalaurie really chained and tortured slaves in the 1820s before the story grew into a famous American nightmare. Our guide had us take photos of the entrance, which he then intrpreted as images of skulls and ghosts. This photo of mine shows "a shadow man." Like I said, it was fun.


We spent much of Saturday walking around, soaking it in. 


I very much enjoyed the Voodoo Museum, which is tiny but has cool exhibits focusing on noted practitioners from the mid 1800s to the 1970s. Not just, ooo, Voodoo is badass, but the careers of real people who got into the practice in different ways and took it in different directions.

I love this accidental photo of Kathi as the spirit behind the mirror. 


Our costumes for Halloween. I love this picture of Kathi because she often has this expression, like she expects that something good is about to happen.

We read that on Halloween the French Quarter is one big costume party, and it is. The atmosphere was really fun, and neither Kathi nor I drinks much, so isn't just that. We danced at a little party in our hotel and then walked through the street party to the vampire ball. The highlight of that for me was actually the line going in, seeing 200 or so people in fabulous costumes – we were middling for this crowd – and chatting with folks from all over the US and beyond. But once it got going the music was too loud for conversation and not very danceable, so we eventually wandered back to our hotel for the end of that party, dancing until our feet gave out. It was the best Halloween for me since that awful day more than a decade ago when my youngest child told me she was trick-or-treating with her friends and didn't want me to come along.

More to come.

Friday, October 30, 2026

Links 30 October 2026

Hecate with Dogs, homeless image from the internet

Why isn't cybercrime a worse threat? Basically, because most of the smart coders have legitimate jobs.

Ben Pentreath tours America with his camera, including Chicago and Monticello.

A serious statistical look at how many Americans live "paycheck to paycheck."

Scott Siskind on the mystery of trepanation in global prehistory. It it very weird that it was practiced in so many places.

Excavating an Anglo-Saxon bucket.

Short video on Twitter/X showing the density of concertina wire guarding some Ukrainian positions. Since the Russians are mostly advancing in groups of one to three men, the defense is now set up to stop small groups of soldiers.

AI translation of the first 100 lines of the Odyssey into heroic hexameters.

The Soviet Union's long interest in telepathy.

Some college students are interested in very traditional, all books no phones classes.

Scott Siskind's links for October, and one from that list, an AI claiming to be the first being to understand Finnegan's Wake.

A new dwarf planet may have been discovered out beyond Pluto.

I am not a fan of Texas' tallest skyscraper.

People worried about cybercrime are urging us to use cash, or at least keep it on hand for emergencies. Resonates with me since my debit card was just shut down due to security issues.

Women are taking over the funeral industry. Matches my experience; all the people I dealt with this year at the funeral home and the cemetery were female.

Edgar Allen Poe as a great writer and a master of self sabotage.

A suffragette Christmas card.

I am off for New Orleans today, hoping to have a spectacular Halloween and my first real fun since my wife's death. Wish me luck. I will see you all sometime next week.

Tuesday, October 27, 2026

Jacobo de Barbari's Map of Venice, 1500

Amazing map, with extraordinary detail, and quite accurate.

Saint Mark's Square

The Arsenal


More. Large version here.

Roger Crowley, "City of Fortune: How Venice Ruled the Seas"

Tintoretto, The Capture of Constantinople, 1580

This is a history, not of Venice, but of Venetian maritime supremacy in the Mediterranean Sea. It begins around the year 1000 but cruises quickly through two centuries before exploding into life with a magnificent narrative of the Fourth Crusade in 1204, when Venice steered the crusaders to Constantinople and ended up with an empire of their own. It ends with the war between Venice and the Ottoman Empire in 1499-1503, when Venice lost its naval edge and reports from Portugal warned the Italians that they were about to lose their trading supremacy as well.

Crowley writes with real vigor about seafaring and war. You will rarely read better narratives of battles, sieges, or campaigns. He is not so great on anything else (money, trade, politics, art), but if you want action, he delivers. I also learned a great deal from this book about the Venetian empire, made up of islands like Crete and Corfu and scattered fortress ports on the mainland. For example, the Venetians ruled Crete with extractive zeal, imposing high taxes and waging near constant war against peasant resistance and banditry; for nearly a century they forbade cultivation of one of the island's most productive farming districts, determined to starve out the armed revolt raging there.

What moved me to write about this book was the horror of it all.

Crowley gives us the accounts of terrified passengers on galleys caught in storms, drenched and tossed around the ship in total darkness and awful fear, knowing they might soon be dead. As bad as storms were, dead summer calms could be even worse, dooming sailors to death by thirst or disease on the broiling sea. Then there were pirates, sometimes freebooters but more often the semi-deniable agents of one or another naval power. As if that wasn't enough, there was also the constant low-level skirmishing between Venetians and their Italian rivals, Pisans and Genoses, which regularly broke out in deadly riots even when the cities were theoretically at peace.

Crowley conveys the grim horror of battles between the crews of galleys, fighting as if on land but with the sea all around, their steel breastplates dooming them to a swift drowning if they fell overboard. Gruesome injuries were common, and something like a crossbow bolt through the cheek was so minor as to be hardly worth mentioning. 

It was not just the common sailors who suffered. Captains were expected to fight beside their men and were regularly killed, especially by enemy crossbowmen. If they lost the battle but survived they were sent back to Venice in chains to face trial as suspected enemies of the state, for Venice had no sympathy with losing commanders. Noblemen could also be sent as ambassdors to sultans or khans who might decide to imprison them or even behead them, which seems to have been a widely used diplomatic signal in the Middle East at the time. Or they might be slain in duels of honor with each other.

And this was the life of Venetians. Every years tens of thousands of Venetian men set sail on voyages from which they might very well not return. They might drown, or be slain, or be shipwrecked on some desert shore, or die of the plague in a foreign port where their ship ended up trapped by a quarantine. But they went, every year for nearly a thousand years.

It was mad.

But maybe human life has mostly been like that, a desperate struggle against dangers of a thousand kinds, when death could find you just easily at home as at sea, and all the routes out of dire poverty involved awful risk. And maybe one reason we are so unhappy in our fat, happy age is that we evolved in conditions like those of Venetian sailors and Cretan peasants, and some part of us longs for that kind of life and find our own age too boring to endure.

Monday, October 26, 2026

Artifacts from Jamestown

Some artifacts found during excavations of the 1607 fort at Jamestown, from their web site. Above is a halberd found in a well. Lots of stuff has come out of the fort that you never find at other Virginia sites of the 1600s, emphasizing the uniqueness of the fort and how different the men there were from later migrants. And also their brutal death rate from hunger and disease, which left pitiful survivors without the strength to salvage even valuable objects like this.

Crucifix made of jet.

Ear cleaner.

Helmet of the type called a cabasset

Drug jars.

Memento mori ring.

Caltrops

A fascinating "Bartman bottle" with an elaborate coat of arms representing the "United Duchies" of the Holy Roman Empire: Julich, Berg, Mark, and Cleve.

A brass counterweight from an elaborate scale.

And a cupping glass, used for drawing blood.

Saturday, October 24, 2026

Medieval Pilgrim Badges

An endlessly fascinating folk art genre. They could be bought at most sites of pilgrimage, and we know of people who visited dozens of shrines to build out their collections. Above, from the shrine of Our Lady of Tambourline, a rocky islet off the Normandy coast.

One of the most famous and common badges, the shell from St. James of Compostella in Spain.


Two from the shrine of Thomas Becket in Canterbury

From Rome


Most people seem to love these dirty ones, but I have seen them so many times that I am bored by them.

I prefer strange and obscure ones, like this dragon found in Poland, of unknown origin.


This represents Thomas of Lancaster, a political figure of 14th-century England who was not saintly in the least but seems to have become the partron of opposition to royal authority.





More obscure badges. Love them.

More Fall