El Zotz is a medium-sized Maya city just 23 kilometers from the great city of Tikal; it was named in modern times for the bats that nest at the site in huge numbers. Its Maya name appears to have been Pa'Chan, meaning "Divided Sky." According to lead excavator Stephen Houston, the city "bears all the marks of a founded city," that is, it was built all at once by outside powers rather than growing organically from a village.
It had a troubled existence with only brief periods of prosperity. It is so close to Tikal that you can actually see the site from the top of Tikal's tallest pyramid, but it was founded by Tikal's enemies during a period when Tikal was weak, presumably to be a thorn in Tikal's side.
Houston says it was an example of "elite-centered communities of rapid origin that were often unstable and
short-lived." Not exactly a formula for a quiet life.
El Zotz has a normal sort of Maya city center with temples and palaces, but the truly exciting finds were made at a subsidiary site on a nearby ridge known as El Diablo. At El Diablo there is a pyramid devoted to the sun god. A major program of excavation was carried out at the site in 2008 to 2010.
Maya pyramids often grew over time. When the city had entered a wealthier and more glorious stage, its leaders might decide that their temples were not grand enough so they would just erect a new one over the top of the old one. Above is the exterior of the El Diablo pyramid in 2008.
Archaeologists love to get beneath the temple's outer layer, which has usually been badly mucked up by time, looting, tree roots, and so on, and find older, smaller pyramids that have been protected by later layers of stone. But these days the pyramids are too valuable as tourist attractions to dismantle them. So, they tunnel in. At El Diablo they entered through this opening, originally dug by looters.
Once beneath the stone of the last, outer layer they found two extroardinary things. First, they found a row of huge plaster masks representing the sun, beautifully preserved. This narrow tunnel was all the space they had to work with, so it was of course impossible to get a photograph of the entire frieze.
Instead what we have is various kinds of scans and stitched-together panoramas. The masks have been dated to between 350 and 400 AD. They depict the sun in the various stages of its daily progress, beginning with a shark-toothed mask that probably represents the sun emerging from the Caribbean Sea. "The noonday sun is depicted as an ancient being with crossed eyes who drank blood, and a final series of masks resemble the local jaguars, which awake from their jungle slumbers at dusk."
The masks were originally painted red, with black details; in fact the whole pyramid may have been painted red. What a site these must have been, glowing red in the morning sun.
Delving deeping into the pyramid, the archaeologists found what they hoped to find at the center of it all: the tomb of the founder of the town's ruling dynasty. This goes by the oh-so-archaeological name of Burial 9. The tomb is believed to contain the remains of a king named Chak who ruled in the late 4th century AD. The ruler was aged in his fifties or sixties at the time of his death and was accompanied in his tomb by the remains of six sacrificed children aged between 1 and 5 years old.
When we sunk a pit into the small chamber of the temple, we hit almost immediately a series of 'caches' blood-red bowls containing human fingers and teeth, all wrapped in some kind of organic substance that left an impression in the plaster. We then dug through layer after layer of flat stones, alternating with mud, which probably is what kept the tomb so intact and airtight.
As you might imagine, this tomb was full of wonderful stuff.
Of the stuff that survives well, the ceramics are particularly wonderful. Love these howler monkeys.
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